| Peter & Carol Lundberg * 10868 Siegmund Road SE * Stayton * Oregon * 97383 503.769.9466 AlpacaBlanketProject @yahoo.com |
Updated 07/01/2009
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| DELIVER YOUR ALPACA FIBER TO US FROM ALONG THE I-5 CORRIDOR WITH WEST COAST TRANSPORT! CLICK HERE TO FIND OUT HOW! |
| DRIVING DIRECTIONS TO OUR FARM! |
| WE HONOR THE MILITARY SONS AND DAUGHTERS SERVING IN THE MIDDLE EAST, INCLUDING OUR SONS, SPC EVAN CUPP AND SPC BRANDON CUPP, US ARMY |
| Questions and Answers |
Since the production of the first run of blankets by Pendleton we have received
several questions regarding their production and our procedures with the fiber you,
our of answering them more fully and maybe clearing any misconceptions others may
also have but have not voiced to us as yet.
Q: We noticed that the blankets had a harsh handle. Why?
A: There were several issues regarding the first run of blankets which we have worked
to resolve. With regard to the handle, there were two reasons for the roughness. 1.
Pendleton did not run the blankets through a fulling process. Fulling (or tucking or
walking) is a step in woollen processing which involves the cleansing of the cloth
(particularly wool) to eliminate oils, dirt, and other impurities, and making it thicker. We
can only assume that Pendleton, having witnessed the alpaca fiber react negatively to
other processes which work on sheep wool, were apprehensive in running the alpaca
blankets through the fulling system because of fears of ruining them altogether. We
have run several of the blankets through a fulling process of our own by washing them
in cold water on the delicate/hand wash cycle with hair conditioner in the rinse cycle
and then allowing them to air dry. This improved the handle of the blankets
substantially.
The other main issue with the handle was on our end. Although we both graduated
from Ruth Elvestad's class in Canada and she taught that each grade should have no
more deviation than 3 microns, we felt that spreading the deviation to 5 microns
wouldn't have that much of an impact on the product and would increase our
submitable yield faster to have the blankets done before the holidays. Unfortunately,
we should have followed the golden rule and stuck to a 3 micron spread per grade.
The extra 2 microns did indeed have an impact on the blankets, as we all saw (and
felt) very clearly. We have since changed our sorting strategies and are adhering to
the 3 micron or less deviation standard.
Q: I heard from a breeder that you used grade 4 fiber for the first run? Why
would you use grade 4 instead of grade 1 or 2? We sent you grade 1 and 2
fleece. Why wasn't it used for the blankets? What happened to it?
A: This is a question that has come up again and again. We have tried to explain the
process, but either we don't explain well enough or it is complicated enough that it
needs further definition:
When your fleece arrives, it is sorted by color. We have 5 color sorts: White, Brown,
Fawn, Black, and Grey (which we still have subdivided into Silver Grey and Rose Grey).
We sort YOUR marked bag with Fluffy's fleece into the proper color.
several questions regarding their production and our procedures with the fiber you,
our of answering them more fully and maybe clearing any misconceptions others may
also have but have not voiced to us as yet.
Q: We noticed that the blankets had a harsh handle. Why?
A: There were several issues regarding the first run of blankets which we have worked
to resolve. With regard to the handle, there were two reasons for the roughness. 1.
Pendleton did not run the blankets through a fulling process. Fulling (or tucking or
walking) is a step in woollen processing which involves the cleansing of the cloth
(particularly wool) to eliminate oils, dirt, and other impurities, and making it thicker. We
can only assume that Pendleton, having witnessed the alpaca fiber react negatively to
other processes which work on sheep wool, were apprehensive in running the alpaca
blankets through the fulling system because of fears of ruining them altogether. We
have run several of the blankets through a fulling process of our own by washing them
in cold water on the delicate/hand wash cycle with hair conditioner in the rinse cycle
and then allowing them to air dry. This improved the handle of the blankets
substantially.
The other main issue with the handle was on our end. Although we both graduated
from Ruth Elvestad's class in Canada and she taught that each grade should have no
more deviation than 3 microns, we felt that spreading the deviation to 5 microns
wouldn't have that much of an impact on the product and would increase our
submitable yield faster to have the blankets done before the holidays. Unfortunately,
we should have followed the golden rule and stuck to a 3 micron spread per grade.
The extra 2 microns did indeed have an impact on the blankets, as we all saw (and
felt) very clearly. We have since changed our sorting strategies and are adhering to
the 3 micron or less deviation standard.
Q: I heard from a breeder that you used grade 4 fiber for the first run? Why
would you use grade 4 instead of grade 1 or 2? We sent you grade 1 and 2
fleece. Why wasn't it used for the blankets? What happened to it?
A: This is a question that has come up again and again. We have tried to explain the
process, but either we don't explain well enough or it is complicated enough that it
needs further definition:
When your fleece arrives, it is sorted by color. We have 5 color sorts: White, Brown,
Fawn, Black, and Grey (which we still have subdivided into Silver Grey and Rose Grey).
We sort YOUR marked bag with Fluffy's fleece into the proper color.
WHITE
FAWN
BROWN
BLACK
<- GREY ->
After that it goes through the grading process, where we look at EVERY FLEECE for length, tenderness, debris,
contamination, second cuts, medullation, and grade. The grade is the 3-micron window that the fleece fits into:
contamination, second cuts, medullation, and grade. The grade is the 3-micron window that the fleece fits into:
GRADE 1......<20 MICRONS.....Ultra Fine
GRADE 2.......20.1 - 22.9.........Superfine
GRADE 3.......23.0 - 25.9.........Fine
GRADE 4.......26.0 - 28.9.........Medium
GRADE 5.......29.0 - 31.9.........Intermediate
GRADE 6.......32.0 - 35.0.........Coarse
GRADE 2.......20.1 - 22.9.........Superfine
GRADE 3.......23.0 - 25.9.........Fine
GRADE 4.......26.0 - 28.9.........Medium
GRADE 5.......29.0 - 31.9.........Intermediate
GRADE 6.......32.0 - 35.0.........Coarse
You still with me so far?
OK, so now we have Fluffy's fiber in one of these very large bales. BUT
we can't take them to Pendleton until we have enough of ONE grade
(minimum of 1,000 lbs to a run) with the same grade in TWO or more
colors (minimum of 500 lbs per color) (To put this into perspective,
when these bales are full they will weigh about 200 lbs. or more)
OK, so now we have Fluffy's fiber in one of these very large bales. BUT
we can't take them to Pendleton until we have enough of ONE grade
(minimum of 1,000 lbs to a run) with the same grade in TWO or more
colors (minimum of 500 lbs per color) (To put this into perspective,
when these bales are full they will weigh about 200 lbs. or more)
If Fluffy's fiber is 100% usable (no debris, medullation, second cuts, contamination, etc.), it gets graded and put into
the bin holding THAT grade and THAT color fiber. (We don't use grade 6 and are holding that usable fleece for a
future project.)
Doing the math, thats 5 colors x 6 grades = 30 bins (or bales)! ------->
the bin holding THAT grade and THAT color fiber. (We don't use grade 6 and are holding that usable fleece for a
future project.)
Doing the math, thats 5 colors x 6 grades = 30 bins (or bales)! ------->
So let's say that Fluffy was a really nice alpaca and her fiber was
18 microns. That would be grade 1, right? But the grade 1 bales aren't full enough. Fluffy is a brown grade 1. In
we'll save it and use grade 4, because we have over 500 lbs of brown and 600 lbs of white both in grade 4. So that
1100 lbs of grade for fiber in two colors. Pendleton can use that. Grade 1 will just have to wait until we get more
grade 1 brown fleeces to make 500 lbs. So Fluffy's fleece waits...
18 microns. That would be grade 1, right? But the grade 1 bales aren't full enough. Fluffy is a brown grade 1. In
we'll save it and use grade 4, because we have over 500 lbs of brown and 600 lbs of white both in grade 4. So that
1100 lbs of grade for fiber in two colors. Pendleton can use that. Grade 1 will just have to wait until we get more
grade 1 brown fleeces to make 500 lbs. So Fluffy's fleece waits...
Q: Okay, so we sent you REALLY nice fleeces, at least 20 lbs, but you're saying that NONE of it was
usable. What's the problem? They were tumbled which got out all the debris!
A: Here's another issue that folks aren't understanding. There are a lot of folks who have spent good money on
tumblers and are sold on them. They believe that they tumble out the second cuts and debris. WRONG! They
tumble it--right into the fleece so it can't be sorted out. Your whole 20 lbs of prime fleece is ruined by the turn of the
tumbler, because unless you pick out EVERY SECOND CUT BEFORE YOU TUMBLE, they are sealed into that fiber
forever and NOTHING will get them out. Nothing, that is, except the spinners at Pendleton, which will catch it and
make it into a big noil (knot) that will either cause the thread to break or make a nice big knot in the blanket. Not
very appealing.
usable. What's the problem? They were tumbled which got out all the debris!
A: Here's another issue that folks aren't understanding. There are a lot of folks who have spent good money on
tumblers and are sold on them. They believe that they tumble out the second cuts and debris. WRONG! They
tumble it--right into the fleece so it can't be sorted out. Your whole 20 lbs of prime fleece is ruined by the turn of the
tumbler, because unless you pick out EVERY SECOND CUT BEFORE YOU TUMBLE, they are sealed into that fiber
forever and NOTHING will get them out. Nothing, that is, except the spinners at Pendleton, which will catch it and
make it into a big noil (knot) that will either cause the thread to break or make a nice big knot in the blanket. Not
very appealing.
Q: You said in one of your posts that you were only getting about 30% usable fiber from all the fiber you
are collecting? How can that be? We sent you nice fiber!
A: As stated before, there are some things that will ruin a great fleece for commercial production. And remember,
the key words here are COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION. Not a show fleece. Get those two ideas separate in your
mind. A show judge will see second cuts, medullation, and debris and may mark you down a few points. The
commercial processor is not so forgiving, because everything that is fed INTO the machinery comes OUT on the
other side in some way. Here are a few things that we see a lot of:
are collecting? How can that be? We sent you nice fiber!
A: As stated before, there are some things that will ruin a great fleece for commercial production. And remember,
the key words here are COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION. Not a show fleece. Get those two ideas separate in your
mind. A show judge will see second cuts, medullation, and debris and may mark you down a few points. The
commercial processor is not so forgiving, because everything that is fed INTO the machinery comes OUT on the
other side in some way. Here are a few things that we see a lot of:
Too long - must be shorter than
5 inches!
5 inches!
Too short - must be longer than 2
inches!
inches!
Contamination/debris: This one
smelled like ammonia. It was put in
the bag wet.
smelled like ammonia. It was put in
the bag wet.
SECOND CUTS!!! When they
are this numerous, something
needs to be said to the shearer!
Unfortunately, no matter how
nice this fleece was, it will get
tossed because it will take too
long to sort it all out.
are this numerous, something
needs to be said to the shearer!
Unfortunately, no matter how
nice this fleece was, it will get
tossed because it will take too
long to sort it all out.
Color contamination: Please,
please, please take the time to sort
out your blanket from your neck and
legs and your white from your dark!
please, please take the time to sort
out your blanket from your neck and
legs and your white from your dark!
Contaminated with inconsistent
fibers of all different lengths and
micron. It got tossed. This was a
neck fleece that was filled
Remember, we can only use the
neck and upper legs if it is between
2 and 5 micron!
fibers of all different lengths and
micron. It got tossed. This was a
neck fleece that was filled
Remember, we can only use the
neck and upper legs if it is between
2 and 5 micron!
And this is just a sample of what we get. A lot of folks are just cleaning out their barns or getting rid of it. That's ok
because usually in those barns we can find at least some usable fiber. But why pay postage on fiber that could be
usable but isn't because you didn't clean your animals before shearing? Or because you had them in sawdust
and did not clean them prior to shearing? (Impossible to remove.) Or you just didn't tell the shearer that this fleece
was going to be used for commercial production and to watch the second cuts? Most shearers shear for show.
They also have to realign their thinking and shear the way YOU want them to. It's YOUR dollar! Make sure you're
getting your value back in usable fleece.
I have a running bet going with a friend of ours who has a cottage-industry mill about who can find the weirdest
stuff in their fiber. To date I have found cigarette butts, Q-tips, candy wrappers, a nylon knee-high, chicken
feathers, and a cotton ball. He won when he found a dead mouse.
because usually in those barns we can find at least some usable fiber. But why pay postage on fiber that could be
usable but isn't because you didn't clean your animals before shearing? Or because you had them in sawdust
and did not clean them prior to shearing? (Impossible to remove.) Or you just didn't tell the shearer that this fleece
was going to be used for commercial production and to watch the second cuts? Most shearers shear for show.
They also have to realign their thinking and shear the way YOU want them to. It's YOUR dollar! Make sure you're
getting your value back in usable fleece.
I have a running bet going with a friend of ours who has a cottage-industry mill about who can find the weirdest
stuff in their fiber. To date I have found cigarette butts, Q-tips, candy wrappers, a nylon knee-high, chicken
feathers, and a cotton ball. He won when he found a dead mouse.
Q: I didn't like the pattern that was chosen, the color of the label was too loud, and I hated the fringe!
A: I chose the easiest pattern for the first run because my mother was on her death bed and I just didn't have
time to sit and figure one out. (In fact, we took the fiber up on Tuesday and she died on Saturday.) Our plan is to
have a different pattern with each run, as much as possible. The next pattern is supposed to be a herringbone,
but as yet we aren't sure what color it will be or what grade. The next run will also not include a fringe, as we
weren't very happy with how it turned out. The edges will all be seamed. As for the labels, sorry--Pendleton's
royal blue label is their trademark. Ours will change color per run but will try to stay with neutral colors.
A: I chose the easiest pattern for the first run because my mother was on her death bed and I just didn't have
time to sit and figure one out. (In fact, we took the fiber up on Tuesday and she died on Saturday.) Our plan is to
have a different pattern with each run, as much as possible. The next pattern is supposed to be a herringbone,
but as yet we aren't sure what color it will be or what grade. The next run will also not include a fringe, as we
weren't very happy with how it turned out. The edges will all be seamed. As for the labels, sorry--Pendleton's
royal blue label is their trademark. Ours will change color per run but will try to stay with neutral colors.
Q: I heard that you didn't run any suri in the last run of blankets? Why?
A: Mainly because until this year we really didn't have any suri that we had finished sorting. When we do include
it in a run, we can only use 20% suri to 80% huacaya. This is because suri is such a dense, strong fiber. While
we will be the first to agree that is has wonderful attributes, such as strength, luster, and a smooth, cool handle
(which is what makes it so great in worsted products), in the woolen method of processing these attributes tend to
lower the handle of the finished product, even when it is of the same grade. It is excellent for using in the warp of
the fabric, but we just don't get enough to use it for that purpose. We will continue to blend it with the huacaya
until such time as we have enough to use it more efficiently.
A: Mainly because until this year we really didn't have any suri that we had finished sorting. When we do include
it in a run, we can only use 20% suri to 80% huacaya. This is because suri is such a dense, strong fiber. While
we will be the first to agree that is has wonderful attributes, such as strength, luster, and a smooth, cool handle
(which is what makes it so great in worsted products), in the woolen method of processing these attributes tend to
lower the handle of the finished product, even when it is of the same grade. It is excellent for using in the warp of
the fabric, but we just don't get enough to use it for that purpose. We will continue to blend it with the huacaya
until such time as we have enough to use it more efficiently.
Q: What changes will be made to improve the blankets this year?
A: A couple of the changes, listed above, include the fulling process and changing the SD factor in the grading
process. Some other changes include Pendleton making the yarn size thicker, possibly with more hairs per
diameter, and changing the pick width on the weaving looms so that the threads are closer together. We have
also been in contact with the Gaston College Textile Technology Center in North Carolina who is willing to work
with Pendleton to teach them the differences in sheep and alpaca processing and provide them with specifications
for the fulling process. Hopefully, these changes, along with being able to provide more fiber (we're hoping for
1500 - 2000 lbs this year versus 1200 last year) and changing the design and finishing styles, will produce a finer,
more appealing product, more of what everyone expected.
A: A couple of the changes, listed above, include the fulling process and changing the SD factor in the grading
process. Some other changes include Pendleton making the yarn size thicker, possibly with more hairs per
diameter, and changing the pick width on the weaving looms so that the threads are closer together. We have
also been in contact with the Gaston College Textile Technology Center in North Carolina who is willing to work
with Pendleton to teach them the differences in sheep and alpaca processing and provide them with specifications
for the fulling process. Hopefully, these changes, along with being able to provide more fiber (we're hoping for
1500 - 2000 lbs this year versus 1200 last year) and changing the design and finishing styles, will produce a finer,
more appealing product, more of what everyone expected.
Q: I don't want to donate any more fiber until I see results. If I don't donate this year will I still be able
to purchase blankets? Will I still be a member?
A: Yes, you'll still be a member until you tell us you don't want to be anymore. Unfortunately, no, you won't be
able to purchase a blanket unless there are some left after all the supporters who donated fiber get the ones they
want. We are obligated to the farms that donate first and foremost, and have a mathematical program developed
by a mathematics professor at Willamette University (who just happens to be our brother-in-law!) that calculates
just how many each member is entitled to based on the total number of blankets produced and the total amount of
USABLE (again, note that word "USABLE") fiber that is donated.
to purchase blankets? Will I still be a member?
A: Yes, you'll still be a member until you tell us you don't want to be anymore. Unfortunately, no, you won't be
able to purchase a blanket unless there are some left after all the supporters who donated fiber get the ones they
want. We are obligated to the farms that donate first and foremost, and have a mathematical program developed
by a mathematics professor at Willamette University (who just happens to be our brother-in-law!) that calculates
just how many each member is entitled to based on the total number of blankets produced and the total amount of
USABLE (again, note that word "USABLE") fiber that is donated.
Q: You have said that you will be paying for fiber. When is that going to happen? What is the
timeline?
A: As we have noted before, we are in what we call the "Inventory Phase," that is, we are at the stage where we
are trying to get and average of all sorts (30 units) nearly full so that when fiber comes in, we have enough for a
run going out. At that time we will be lucrative enough to begin paying for fiber. We had hoped that would be next
year, but that will depend on how much fiber we get this year. So far we are about 30% from full, so we may have
to extend our timeline to 2011.
timeline?
A: As we have noted before, we are in what we call the "Inventory Phase," that is, we are at the stage where we
are trying to get and average of all sorts (30 units) nearly full so that when fiber comes in, we have enough for a
run going out. At that time we will be lucrative enough to begin paying for fiber. We had hoped that would be next
year, but that will depend on how much fiber we get this year. So far we are about 30% from full, so we may have
to extend our timeline to 2011.
Q: It costs too much to mail you fiber. Isn't there some way to transport the fiber from my farm to your
location?
A: We have arranged 3 different routes in the NorthWest and Northern Rocky Mountain states this year. The
Northern Rocky Mountain route was put together by an enterprising farm that decided to combine their vacation
with fiber collection! To help pay for their time, they are taking the fiber for a minimal fee to get it here. We have
looked into LTL (less than truckload) shipping of fiber across the country, but it involves getting a minimum
number of pounds to one location, crating it and shrinkwrapping it to a pallet for pickup. Not something easily
handled this far away. However, if there is a collaborative effort within an affiliate or other group of alpaca
breeders who would like to combine their efforts to accomplish this, we could probably join the group in helping to
cover the expense.
location?
A: We have arranged 3 different routes in the NorthWest and Northern Rocky Mountain states this year. The
Northern Rocky Mountain route was put together by an enterprising farm that decided to combine their vacation
with fiber collection! To help pay for their time, they are taking the fiber for a minimal fee to get it here. We have
looked into LTL (less than truckload) shipping of fiber across the country, but it involves getting a minimum
number of pounds to one location, crating it and shrinkwrapping it to a pallet for pickup. Not something easily
handled this far away. However, if there is a collaborative effort within an affiliate or other group of alpaca
breeders who would like to combine their efforts to accomplish this, we could probably join the group in helping to
cover the expense.
I know that we've said it before but it bears repeating over and over again: We are NOT a cooperative, we are a COLLABORATION of folks trying
to achieve the same goal--a means of getting our fiber processed into a lucrative, sustainable product that can be sold in the high-end fiber
product industry. In other words, getting that "valuable" fiber out of the barns and making some bucks from it! We'll continue to do OUR best in
meeting that end, but we are only as successful as you make us. We value and appreciate your continued support!
Peter & Carol Lundberg
to achieve the same goal--a means of getting our fiber processed into a lucrative, sustainable product that can be sold in the high-end fiber
product industry. In other words, getting that "valuable" fiber out of the barns and making some bucks from it! We'll continue to do OUR best in
meeting that end, but we are only as successful as you make us. We value and appreciate your continued support!
Peter & Carol Lundberg
